Until very recently I had forgotten what it felt like to drive in the true dark. I am speaking of the dark that, at last, allows the car headlights to highlight a few dazed and fragile moths, like the small passages in a book that feel like illumination and that stick to you before perhaps breaking your heart. The dark of no streetlamps, the dark of no road markings, the dark of winter and of not necessarily having anywhere to go—we did that night though, have somewhere to go that is, because we drove out to have dinner at an isolated establishment sitting just up from the invisible, black sea.